Heat the oven to 425 degrees with racks in the top third of the oven and the bottom third. Line a rimmed sheet pan with parchment paper.
Over the sink, gently squeeze the tofu between your hands to extract some water but take care to not smush it. Slice the tofu into ½ to ¾-inch cubes. Cover with a few paper towels, gently pressing down several times to remove more water.
PREP AND COOK THE TOFU: In a large bowl, combine the tofu with 1½ tablespoons of oil, ¾ teaspoon kosher salt and pepper to taste, gently tossing with a silicone spatula. Add the potato starch and toss until well coated. Spread the tofu out on the lined pan without touching. Bake on the top rack for 15 minutes, then transfer to the bottom rack (rotate the pan by 180 degrees if your oven has hot spots) and bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until golden and crunchy.
WHILE THE TOFU BAKES, PREPARE THE GRAVY: Heat a large skillet over medium for a few minutes, then add 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the cinnamon stick and toss occasionally for 30 to 60 seconds, until very aromatic, then add the chopped onion with a pinch of salt. Stir occasionally until nicely browned, 10 to 15 minutes, adding a splash of water if the onion starts to brown unevenly.
While the onion cooks, peel and grate (or mince) the ginger and finely chop the garlic. Once the onion is browned, add the ginger and garlic plus the tomato paste to the pan. Stir almost constantly for 90 seconds, then add a splash of water plus the coriander, cumin, chile powder and turmeric. Stir constantly for 30 seconds.
Stir in the tomatoes, using their liquid to loosen up any browned bits. Season with 1 teaspoon kosher salt and pepper to taste. Stir occasionally for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the tomatoes have softened and the gravy has melded together.
Pour in the cashew milk and stir occasionally until it thickens, 2 to 3 minutes. Fold in the frozen peas and simmer until warmed through, about 2 minutes. Note: if you prefer a looser gravy, add more milk.
Remove from the heat and discard the cinnamon stick. Stir in the garam masala. If using fenugreek leaves, rub them between your fingers, then add them to the pan.
Cool slightly, then stir in the cilantro. Add the baked tofu on top to preserve its crispiness (or stir it in fully, if you prefer). Serve with rice or flatbread.
Original source: Nisha Vora for NYT; only reproduced here for personal archiving purposes, credits go to original authors.